The language of fabric

Ujjawal Dubey’s designs are an attempt to find balance between the inner voice and the outer body

What drew you to design?

UD: I don’t recall being drawn to design during my childhood days, but I definitely recall being picky about certain things and products. I have always been inspired by architecture and I had unsuccessfully applied to a lot of courses in architecture. During that period I stumbled upon an NIFT application form and took up a course (specializing in textile design) at NIFT Kolkata. I went on to work with designers Shantanu & Nikhil for a while before starting my own label.

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Give us a glimpse of your design process.

UD: I’m a moody person and have always followed my current state of mind. I usually don’t have a particular design process but I begin with draping all the garments onto myself. I have always focused on making clothes that are personality-enhancing. Wearability has been an important factor and I have always worked around that and tried to interpret it in our clothing as much as possible. The fabric remains the hero; layers and drape, along with the graphic compositions that form a color block while making the garments help me get closer to the mood. My aim is to connect to my audience as much as I can, from the tiniest detail of skin exposure to the neckline and to the way the layers fall on the chest and the mystery around it. I have to be able to see people wear the garment and feel empowered.

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How does social media influence the wardrobe choices of people in India?

UD: India has always adored and looked up to Bollywood for everything related to lifestyle and fashion; and that’s why it is refreshing to see people who are influencing others and making them more conscious of what they wear. Social media is updating and making people more conscious about their choices and lifestyle.